Thursday, 25 April 2024

ALL ABOUT MOUSTACHE

 





We Bengalis are introduced to moustaches in very early childhood when our parents teach us poems from Abol-Tabol or Nonsense Rhymes. Shukumar Roy’s ‘Goph Churi’ or Mustache Thievery. It is a hilarious poem of how a head clerk in an office laments how his moustache has been stolen. But growing and grooming a moustache is a very serious business and it indeed has a very long history. It comes in various shapes and sized and many famous personalities have grown and immortalized them. 


Who can forget the inviting smile of Air India’s Maharaja and the inimitable moustache that was given to him by Bobby Kooka, the then-commercial director of Air India, and Umesh Rao, an artist with J. Walter Thompson Limited in 1946? Some people are so obsessed about their moustache that there is even an annual moustache competition in Rajasthan, which adorns their tourist calendar and people from all over the world come to participate and enjoy!


Back in the day, mustaches were a symbol of class and social status. The words and sentiments associated with a moustache are many: virility, honour, pride and military power. A trend started by King Charles I in the early 1600s, you didn't really grow one unless you were a pretty important person. Over four centuries later, and we're all sprouting a bit of lip fuzz just because, well, we can. But the moustache has always commanded a certain level of respect.


In India, in the warrior community, the Rajputs, the moustache was held in high esteem. Moustaches have been particularly robust in their part of the country, often flowing abundantly not only out of the face but also into several feet, demanding care and attention. Sometimes moustaches can indicate caste pride, and in places, not allowed to lower castes. The Muslim rulers had a different style of moustache from the Hindu Rajpoots or Marathas.


Like all the fashion trends that we see come and go, (and sometimes come again), the moustache has had a shifting popularity over time. From ‘Global Chikna Movement to Mooch Nahin to Kuck Nahin’ we have been witness to a wide spectrum of facial hair fashion. The word "moustache" is French, and according to Encyclopaedia Britannica, it is derived from the fourteenth century Italian word “moustacio”, this in turn, can be traced all the way back to the Hellenistic Greek word for lip.

 

History:



Facial hair was big in the 19th century. Look at paintings or photographs from this time, and chances are the men will have beards, moustaches or sideburns – and sometimes elaborate combinations of all three. However, the earliest instance of a clearly defined moustache appeared on the upper lip of an ancient Egyptian prince named Rahotep. He was 4th Dynasty which dates his moustache back to about 2500BC. His statue appears with wife Nofret at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.



Running second to the prince by about twenty two hundred years is the Pazyryk Horseman. Hailing from high up in Siberia’s Altai Mountains is Pazyryk, a region close to the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Mongolia. The Horseman with his well defined moustache appears on a felt artefact that is dated at 300BC. This was excavated from a tomb and is now in the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg.

The moustache had become so popular within the world’s military forces that it was commonly used to tell the difference between military men and normal civilians. From 1860 to 1916, it was actually mandatory for British soldiers to grow a moustache as part of their dress regulation. A more clean-shaven look was in fashion from about the 1880s. Moustaches came into their own then. The shaggy ‘walrus’ style had the hair droop luxuriously over the lip, but other styles demanded a lot of care. The beard and the sideburns were gone and only the moustache remained, but not for long though.

It was only a matter of time before the moustache went the same way as beards and sideburns. An entirely smooth face was becoming the norm by the 1910s. The First World War hastened the hairless look. Men who spent weeks in the mud and grime of trenches relished the chance to wash and shave in clean water, and after the war, the shaving trend continued.

The 1920s brought an emphasis on personal hygiene. A sleek hairless face was the ideal look for men. And hairlessness became fashionable for women, too; this is the time when clothing styles showed more of women’s bodies, and shaving underarms and legs began in earnest. Another world war and the discipline of military life kept upper lips smooth.  There were exceptions: sailors could get permission to stop shaving and grow a ‘set’, and the moustached pilot was common in the air force. 

The 1970s and early 1980s were another heyday for the moustache. No longer was a hairy moustache an outward sign of disaffected youth. Every second man seemed to have a moustache. From the sports field to the state service, the trend was towards big and bushy as moustaches seemed to symbolise a rugged manliness. New styles also came in, heavily influenced by American fashion. The droopy, sinister ‘Fu Manchu’ and pencil-thin Italian ‘tash’ both owed some of their popularity to kung fu, gangster and Mafia movies of the time.

For some in the gay community coming out in the 1980s, moustaches were an iconic symbol of identity. Inspired by singer Freddy Mercury or bearded ‘Bears’, gay men wore their facial hair with pride.

 

Some famous moustaches

Maharana Pratap, Shivaji, Emperror Ashok, Chengis Khan are characters from history who had moustache and beard.

American Civil War general Ambrose Burnside is known as the originator of side whiskers, which were later called “sideburns,” a name inspired by his surname. 

Clark Gable in his 30 years career  starred in some of Hollywood’s most memorable productions, including Mutiny on the Bounty and Gone with the Wind. Gable wore one of the most famous mustaches in Hollywood during the mid-20th century. 



Adolf Hitler - Admit it—you knew he would make this list. Hitler’s principal role in starting World War II and his state-sponsored killing of millions of Jews made him one of the most hated people in world history. The fascist dictator was also known for his instantly recognizable grooming style. So unmistakable was his “toothbrush” mustache, a type characterized by thick whiskers that span the width of the nose, that it is often called the “Hitler mustache.”

Charlie Chaplin – Again a tooth brush moustache but the famous Hollywood actor immortalized it and is only person for salvaging the pride of this moustache after Hitler gave it the notoriety.

U.S. President William Howard Taft wore the classic “handlebar” mustache. 

Mark Twain – His Walrus moustache was unmistakable.



Salvador Dalí - It’s very probable that Salvador Dalí was known as much for his unusual waxed mustache as for his Surrealist paintings. His art often depicts a dream world in which commonplace objects are juxtaposed, deformed, or otherwise metamorphosed in a bizarre and irrational fashion. His trademark waxed mustache, which the American Mustache Institute places in a category called “Dalí,” is narrow, with long pointed ends that train steeply upward.



Groucho Marx - As far as mustaches go, Groucho Marx’s was likely one of the most famous on the planet. His distinctive wide mustache might have fallen into the American Mustache Institute’s “walrus” or “chevron” categories, but, so far, it has defied classification. So we will call it Groucho type.



Veerappan – He was a sandalwood smuggler in Karnatakaand his moustache was immortalized in a film made after his demise. A cosmetic company launched their moustache wax, and called it Veerappan. It was claimed to tame the most notorious of moustaches and soften split ends.

 


Many names:

The moustache is also lovingly called the cookie duster, crumb catcher, tea stainer, face lace, lip shadow, manometer. Men who love their moustaches do love them.

 

Types of Moustaches



Natural / Classic moustache – This is a trim moustache that sits just above the upper lip. There’s a good reason why this classic, original moustache is an iconic, versatile look. It's simple, clean, and easy on the eye. As the name suggests, this is an unpretentious, no-nonsense moustache that is neither a trim Clark Gable number, nor extravagantly bushy. The white line of the upper lip is always visible. The natural moustache is for those who like to express their masculinity in an understated, unfussy way, and it's one of the easiest short moustache styles to achieve.  This looks good on any face.



The pencil thin moustache - It’s a super-thin strip of hair that outlines your upper lip. This style is quite easy, fuss-free and edgy. It requires minimal effort to create and deliver high-class charm. It’s perfect for someone who has a hard time growing facial hair. Few moustache styles exude the vintage sophistication and class of the pencil moustache, which was favoured by such true greats as Errol Flynn and David Niven. Just make sure you have the classy wardrobe to match.




The Chevron moustache - The chevron moustache has a name that says it all: it’s a moustache, shaped like a chevron that covers your whole top lip. the Chevron displays itself loudly and proudly upon the wearer's top lip, representing a hefty style statement. Grow some beard stubble below it, and you’ll have an even more formidable look that will attract knowing nods of appreciation from closet connoisseurs of the finest trimmed moustache styles.




The Horseshoe moustache - This is like a moustache, but includes two long bars of moustache hair pointing downwards, often extending all the way to the chin. It brings to mind a hard-edged cowboy out on the ranch, with both its name and its wild curved look. This style of moustache also had a comeback in popularity in the 1970s and Hulk Hogan of Pro Wrestling made it really popular. Round and square faces looking to add some length do so with this moustache.



The Handlebar moustache - In the yesteryears, the handlebar moustache was one of the most worn Indian moustache styles. The charm of this style hasn’t faded yet. Right from ‘A’ list Bollywood celebrities like Ranveer Singh to finest cricketers like Shikhar Dhawan, they’ve pulled off this moustache style with lots of ease.  It resemble gracefully upturned bicycle handlebars. It's the perfect match for a pipe or a horse.  The handlebar moustache style works well for men with triangle or diamond face shapes.  A nicely cowboy-esque square face can help you pull off this most gentlemanly of moustache styles.



Fu Manchu moustache - No moustache type screams 'evil mastermind' quite like the Fu Manchu, its name borrowed from the villain (hero?) of British writer Sax Rohmer’s series of novels. It is an evil version of horseshoe with delicate fronds and coming down on either side of chin till the jawline.



Dallas moustache
- With its hint of cowboy, the Dallas has long been one of the most confidently masculine trimmed moustache styles. Just be sure to shampoo and trim it regularly, to make sure you don’t end up smelling like a cowboy, too.  This is best for square faces. Embrace that strong jaw with a strong moustache.



Pyramid moustache - This sophisticated moustache is characterised by a wide base that slightly narrows as it reaches the nose. When it's done right – and rest assured that this isn't one of the more challenging short moustache styles to grow – the pyramid moustache will look good on almost any face shape, its borders easily maintained with a stubble or precision trimmer.



Frank Zappa moustache – This is one-off type as Frank Zappa himself, combining a wide soul patch or mid lower lip hair patch with a full moustache growing slightly past the corners of the mouth. As a rule of thumb, the fuller your Zappa moustache is, the better – although unlike some other moustache styles, it isn't too high-maintenance either. A bit of stubble will complement it nicely. This is for oblong faces, or those seeking more definition.




The Walrus Moustache - In many ways, The Walrus is just a beefed up version of The Classic. It’s a style that favored by Wild West outlaws (and the actors who play them) because it requires very little maintenance compared to some of the other styles in this article. Maybe that's why Hollywood icon Sam Elliott is such a big fan. If you’re brave enough to sport The Walrus, then you need to grow out the hair above your lip for a good two months. Don’t worry too much about being precise, as this is all about looking a bit rough and ready. The growth should hang well over the top lip, and all you need is a brush and scissors to keep it in shape. Just make sure you grow out the sides and wash it daily.



 Military moustache - Also known as the ’cop stache’ in some quarters, the military moustache – with its top curved edges and lower edge that doesn’t grow over the lip – really does command instant attention and respect. It is best for square faces with well-defined jaw lines are well complemented by this strong moustache.


The Toothbrush moustache - A small toothbrush size moustache saddling  the middle third of the upper lip and no more. This was immortalized by Charlie Chaplin and it gained its notoriety under the nose of Adolf Hitler.

Then we have some moustache and beard combo that too are very popular: like Moustache with stubble, Moustache and Goatee, Gunslinger beard,  the royale beard, and the anchor beard.

 

Aren’t these different types of moustache styles game-changers? So, what are you waiting for? It’s time to bring out your charming and unique personality with these Indian moustache styles. Trimming a moustache can be challenging, but it will be a lot easier if you’ve got the right tools for the job. It is mandatory to keep the moustache clean and well-trimmed. A little research on a variety of products such as wax and oils will go a long way. Grooming is essential. It is often seen that men who sport one are often drawn to touching it frequently. Try to control this habit. Remember, with a great moustache comes great responsibility. Stay groomed, stay stylish.

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