Istambul not like Paris or Rome or Prague, where elegance and
grandeur pour out of every side street and sprawling square. Istanbul’s beauty
is nuanced and complex, and it reveals itself slowly, day by day, layer by
layer. But Istanbul has the Bosphorus (or Bosporus) which will
remain the envy of all cities.
Before Istanbul grew into the cosmopolitan city it is today, it was
conquered, fought over, and rebuilt many times. It was Byzas the Megarian who
named the city Byzantine in 700 BC, and until 300 BC a small colony of Greeks
inhabited the area. For the next 1,000 years, Byzantine thrived as a trading
and commercial center, which caught the eye of the Roman Empire who conquered
the area in 193 AD continuing to use it as a trading hub. When Roman Emperor
Constantine left Rome in the 4th Century, he deemed Istanbul as
the new capital.
History
With its seven hills, control of the Bosphorus, and easy
access to the Golden Horn harbor, the city was a prime example of strategic
advantage. As the empire’s new capital, it was re-organized and widened, while
new temples, official buildings, palaces, hamams, and the hippodrome were
built. In 330 AD, the city was declared the Eastern Roman Empire’s capital and
renamed Constantinople with an official ceremony. Constantinople remained the
capital for many centuries and enjoyed a golden age in the 6th
Century under Emperor Justinyen.
After several attacks, including the Arabs in the 7th and
8th Centuries and the Bulgars in the 9th and 10th Centuries,
the capital fell to the Crusaders in 1204 who destroyed and raided it for many
years. Even though the Byzantine Empire regained control of Constantinople by
1261, it never reached its former glory and in 1453, after a 53-day siege, the
Turks conquered the city and renamed it Istanbul, capital of the Ottoman
Empire. Under Ottoman rule, the city saw a rise in population with Greek,
Armenian, and Jewish immigrants enjoying religious freedom and social
rights. Out of all the Ottoman leaders, it was Süleyman the Magnificent
(1520-66) whose military conquests brought wealth to Istanbul.
Following the
death of Süleyman, the empire began to decline, losing territory to the West in
the 18th Century, and being occupied by allied troops after the
end of WWI. It was with the leadership of prominent commander and war hero
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk that a four-year War of Independence resulted in the
establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. When the capital was moved to
Ankara, Istanbul remained a commercial and cultural center with its remaining
historic sites left to tell the story of its exuberant past.
The Bosporus
The Bosporus is the world’s narrowest strait used for international navigation. The Bosporus connects the Black
Sea with the Sea of Marmara, and, by extension via the Dardanelles, the Aegean
and Mediterranean seas, and by the Kerch Strait, the sea of Azov. The Bosphorus
strait is one of the world’s important maritime routes for the transportation of
oil from the Caspian Sea region and Russia to regions including Asia,
Western and Southern Europe.
It’s where Europe comes down to meet Asia, the heart of
multiple civilizations. The Bosphorus strait draws the city of Istanbul
together, connecting its European side to its Asian half with chameleon blue
strokes. And while the iconic body of water has featured in more movies,
songs and Instagram accounts than can be counted, the economic and strategic
importance of the Bosphorus will always rival its cultural impact.
The Bosporus strait has played a major role in world trade
for centuries. About 48,000 vessels transit the straits each year, making this
area one of the world’s busiest maritime gateways. The strait is 30 kilometers (19 miles) long with the maximum
width being 3.7 kilometres (2.3 miles) at the northern entrance and minimum
width 750 metres (2,450 feet) between two Ottoman-era forts, Rumeli and
Anadoluhisari. The depth ranges from 36.5 metres to 124 metres (120 to 408
feet) midstream.
The Bosporus is one of the world’s
most important chokepoints for the maritime transit of oil. Over 3 percent
of global supply or 3 million barrels per day, mainly from Russia and the
Caspian Sea, passes through the waterway. The route also ships vast amounts of
grains from Russia, Ukraine and Kazakhstan to world markets.
It is also a two-way passage for
sea life. It acts as an ecological tunnel between the Mediterranean and Black
sea. Fish pass through the strait in order to feed on the rich nutritious
waters of the Black Sea. This in turn makes the Bosporus Strait one of the
most dynamic regions in the world for fishing.
Three bridges have been built across the strait with the
first being the Bosphorus Bridge completed in 1973. The bridge was renamed ‘July
15th Martyrs’ bridge after 34 civilians were killed by putschists
during the 2016 coup attempt.
The locals and the Bosporus
Many
Istanbulites take the Bosporus for granted, continent-hopping by passenger
ferries daily to get to work, school or to conduct their daily affairs. But the
ferries of the strait are special; they host the daily commuters with the
spirit of Turkish hospitality. People on the ferries can find buskers and other
performing artists hoping to earn some money while trying to make the
cross-continental jaunt a little more pleasant.
The Bosphorus is always one of the
most popular areas of Istanbul for its inhabitants, especially during hot
summer days. If you will take a cruise along its shores, you will observe
Ottoman palaces, old wooden villas, fortresses and fine arvelousoods. I am
always fascinated by the nostalgic wooden mansions and imagine the stories
behind them. Years ago they were inhabited by poets and high ranking officers.
Now they belong to the wealthy or inherited from generation to generation. Some
of them are also the most expensive houses in the world.
Two sporting events
The iconic Bosporus
Cross-Continental Swim is a very popular event on the
city’s colander. The strait in
Istanbul comes to a standstill as thousands of swimmers cross from Asia to
Europe in the world’s only intercontinental swimming race. As swimmers
take over the Bosphorus waters and one of the busiest shipping lanes in the
world is temporarily closed to traffic. The course is 6.5 kilometres (4.3
miles), the water is fast, clear and furious with a major current making the
swim challenging.
The Istanbul Marathon is
the only marathon in the world to be done across two continents. Runners
start the race by crossing the July 15 Martyr’s Bridge giving the participants
a arvelous view of the Bosphorus. The route passes many historic and iconic
sites such as the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia and ends in Sultanahmet in the
European part. All in all the race crosses three bridges, one in the Bosphorus
and two over the Golden Horn.
The mythology
The name Bosporus comes from a Thracian word meaning “passage of the
cow.” The name is derived from the legend of Io who was one the many
lovers of the Greek god Zeus. Hera, the wife of Zeus, became suspicious and
came down from Mount Olympus to see what her husband was up to. The name is derived from the legend of Io who was one the many
lovers of the Greek god Zeus. Zeus in haste to hide his affair changed Io’s
form to a white cow. Hera saw right through the ruse and asked to keep Io as a
present, to which Zeus agreed. She had Arges, a Cyclops, watch over it, but Io
got free eventually. So Hera sent flies to sting and bother Io for all time,
this pushed her to madness and trying to escape, she travelled the world!
Istanbul and Bosporus a true double delight
While Istanbul is beautiful every
hour of each day, the best time to see the real beauty of it is during sunset
and sunrise. With its amazing silhouette, Istanbul makes both visitors and
residents fall in love with the city.
The city can take you back centuries with
its landmarks, including Galata Tower, Maiden’s Tower, Haghia Sophia and the
mosques that rise to the sky. Even when you are stuck in a traffic jam while
crossing the bridge from Europe to Asia and feel completely overwhelmed, seeing
the Istanbul skyline over the bridge can make you forget all the negative
effects of Istanbul as a metropolis. Sunset in this city is divine. From
cotton candy clouds to drama queen shades, each day ends in different colours.
Salacak
Salacak is a perfect spot hidden away
in the Üsküdar district on the Asian side. Salacak is where Maiden’s Tower
salutes Istanbulites every day. The closest destination to the tower is tea
houses located on the shore. All the colours of nature, from yellow to pink,
give a visual feast to visitors during each sunset. Looking to the historic peninsula
right behind the Maiden’s Tower, a perfect Istanbul silhouette can be seen
complete clearly when the sun bids farewell behind one of the seven hills of
Istanbul. If you are on holiday in Istanbul, there is a good chance you saw a
photograph of the sun setting behind the Maiden’s Tower before you arrived.
Yes, the photos can be stunning, but the sunset view from Salacak is more
beautiful and mesmerizing that it is in the photos. The best place to see the
sunset over the tower is Büfe Taner since it is located exactly in front of the
tower.
Camlica hill
Istanbul’s seven hills are known for
their magnificent beauty. Among the hills, Çamlıca is the tallest one. If you
would like to watch an incredible sunset view in the city, Çamlıca hill is a
perfect spot. Including views of the Prince’s Islands, Sultanahmet Mosque,
Süleymaniye Mosque, Ortaköy, Çamlıca Hill offers a host of landmarks for you to
watch adorn the sunset.
Foodie’s delight
If you love traversing the city for hours, walking down the
streets and hopping on to local transports like the locals, which is my style,
then you can never miss gorging on everything from Simit to Borek Manti while enjoying
Istanbul. The locals directed us to an outdoor patio at a cafe next to the
Bosphorus. These guys specialized in slices of syrup-soaked baklava served with
a tulip-shaped glass filled with apple tea. Turkish food is so diverse and so
innovative that if you have not tasted it you are missing out on some pleasures
of life and cafes by the sides of Bosphorus offer both tasty food and
breathtaking sights!
Lahmacun is a street food version of pizza minus the sauce and
cheese. Dough is rolled, flattened, and spread with a premade mixture of finely
minced lamb, onions, tomatoes, and parsley. It's then baked and served with a
salad.
Balik Ekmek is one of their best dishes is fish preparation. A lightly seasoned filet
served on a bread roll with onions, tomatoes, and lettuce, the fish is largely
deboned
My local friends were avid foodies
and very serious with the correct name and pronunciation of each culinary
delight. People often confuse
kebabs, gyro, shwarama, and doner so they helped us with their
profound gastronomic knowledge. A Turk originally invented the large blocks of
spinning meat you see around the world before introducing them to Greece to
become what you commonly call a gyro
(Greek for "turn"). The main difference between the Greek and Turkish
versions is the sauces and spices: gyros
have tzatziki, while kebabs do not. Shwarama is actually Arabic for the same dish so gyro, shwarama, and doner are essentially the same thing.
Kebab is any type of grilled meat on a skewer.
They come in many forms, but will never be served as a wrap with the exception
of a doner kebab (simply translating to “rotating meat” in Turkish), making
everything technically a doner. Chunks of diced meat cooked over an open flame
with vegetables, be sure to try Adana
Kebab for a kick of savory Turkish spice accompanied by fresh veggies.
In a
nearby narrow pedestrianised street we sampled menemen, a classic Turkish
breakfast omelette-like dish, at a local al fresco café in the fashionable
suburb of Kadıköy on the Asian side of the city.
The national drink of Turkey, Ayran
is a cold yogurt, which you'll find all over Istanbul. It has a bitter and
salty taste, but a smooth finish. It's normally served with grilled meat to
cleanse the palate
The local transport
I've
visited many of the great transport cities of the world such as San Francisco,
Lisbon and Hong Kong but for sheer variety of public conveyances in stupendous
settings, Istanbul comprehensively mows all of them down. Cities like Istanbul,
possessed with intricate, colourful and at times vintage transport networks designed
to conquer both land and water and which are still actively patronised by their
citizens, are akin to mammoth theme parks. Every ferry, funicular, tram or
train is a thrill ride of sorts to be savoured and enjoyed.
There
are two Nostalgic tram lines in Istanbul - one on the European side
and another on the Asian side. We caught the one on the European side.
Here a diminutive, ketchup-coloured tram trundles along at barely a walking
pace, the vehicle's driver furiously sounds his bell in a vain attempt to
thread a path through a throng of hundreds, maybe thousands, of oblivious
pedestrians. This is the less than a two-kilometre journey aboard
Istanbul's so-called Nostalgic Tram, a faithful and convincing replica of the
original 19th-century version which once operated along here until it was, like
so many city trams around the world, withdrawn from service. Happily it was
revived in 1990 with Istanbul's transport officials having to rely largely on
old photographs of its predecessor in order to recreate it. Today it connects
two famous squares, Tünel with Taksim, the latter being Istanbul's main public
gathering point.
In
order to reach the Asian shore, I need to take the modern Istanbul metro from
Gayrettepe, the station below Raffles Istanbul, and connect to the Marmaray
railway tunnel, among the great feats of modern-day engineering. The name
"Marmaray" is derived from the combination of the name of the Sea of
Marmara and the word "ray", Turkish for "rail".
The
metro may be a great technological marvel but by taking it one misses the sheer
joy of the ferry ride across the busy Bosphorous and its awesome
views of the city with its emblematic dome and minaret-studded skyline. By
crossing the two continents on the Bosphorus one is able to glimpse the city's
magnificent historic palaces, the summer houses of the Ottoman Sultans and the
famous Maiden Tower in the middle of the ever-turbulent waterway.
And
then there is the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Spice Market and many
other visual and culinary delights. We have talked about the Hagia Sophia in
the past https://surajitbrainwaves.blogspot.com/2020/07/hagia-sophia-changing-with-changing.html
and we
will talk about the others at a later date.