UNDERSTAND YOUR SKIN MOISTURIZER

It’s a common mistake to dismiss moisturizer if you have normal or oily skin. The truth is moisturizers can be beneficial for any skin type. As we age, we lose oil-producing glands in the skin, which leaves the skin dried out and more prone to damage. Moisturizers and skin lotions reverse that process by locking water in the topmost layer of the skin and replenishing the skin’s protective barrier. For people with dry skin, keeping the skin hydrated that way will help you get rid of cracks and flakes. For those with oily skin, avoiding moisturizers can cause the skin to try and overcompensate for the missing moisture by producing even more oil, leading to acne flare-ups and shiny skin. 

If you have found yourself standing confused in the skincare aisle of a department store, don’t worry, you are not the only one. Picking the right moisturizer can be both confusing and challenging proposition. So let us understand them. The ingredients that make up a moisturizer can be divided into three groups:

Humectants - the simplest way to explain humectants is to think of them as water magnets. They pull moisture from the air and from the deeper layers of the skin into the uppermost skin layer called the epidermis. Common humectants include glycerine, hyaluronic acid, and propylene glycol.

Emollients - when the top layer of your skin doesn’t contain enough water, the skin crack and flakes off which leaves open spaces between cells. Emollients are components of fatty substances, also called lipids, which fill the fill those gaps, making your skin softer and smoother. Examples for emollients include shea butter and oils.

Occlusives - the final group of ingredients are the occlusives, a type of moisturizing agents that work by forming a protective coating on the surface of your skin. The barrier formed between your skin and the air offers two primary benefits: keeping water sealed inside your skin and keeping irritants, allergens, and other harmful particles from being able to enter your skin.

Many facial moisturizers contain a reduced amount of occlusive ingredients as they might clog pores. On the other hand, lotions that are meant for thick skin areas like the elbows or feet tend to be rich in occlusives. 

The most important ingredient to look out for in a moisturizer: 

Glycerine : Glycerine belongs in the humectant category, and it is actually the third most common ingredient in moisturizers, right behind water and fragrance. It keeps the skin hydrated by drawing moisture from the air and deeper layers of the skin. Its hygroscopic nature attracts moisture. However, in dry environments, there is not enough moisture in the air to draw into the skin, so humectants like glycerine rely more heavily on the moisture found in the lower skin levels, resulting in more dryness. For this reason, it's important that glycerine in moisturizers is combined with emollients like shea butter. 

Shea Butter : Shea butter is a natural emollient that’s extracted from the nuts of the shea tree. Shea trees are native to West Africa, and most shea butter still comes from that region. When incorporated in moisturizers, shea butter works as an emollient, as it fills out the cracks in your skin, and keeps the moisture contained. Not only does it hide imperfections and gives the skin a youthful look, it actively helps the damaged skin to heal. It’s important to note that if you suffer from acne you may want to avoid using products with shea butter, as it can clog the pores.

Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is another humectant found in many moisturizers. It is also produced naturally by your skin to help retain water. As you age, the amount of natural hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases, making it more likely to dry out. For that reason, older people may want to opt for moisturizers with hyaluronic acid high on the ingredient list.  Another factor that may cause natural hyaluronic acid levels to decrease is prolonged exposure to UV radiation in sunlight. So if you spent a long time outdoors, on a camping trip or at the beach, for example, your skin would benefit greatly from applying a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. It is an important ingredient, as it helps the skin retain its natural ability to retain moisture and appear soft and youthful. 

Petrolatum: Petrolatum ointment like Vaseline is the most effective occlusive, sealing in moisture and creating a protective coating over your skin that prevents water from evaporating. The combination of humectants like glycerin and petrolatum will keep the skin hydrated. Once the water is drawn into the epidermis by the humectant, the petrolatum seals it in the upper and lower skin levels. Alternatively, you may apply Vaseline after you shower, to keep extra moisture from fading away. However those who are acne-prone should use petrolatum with caution and do a patch test behind the ears. Alternatively they can just reserve this occlusive ingredient for body care - dry elbows, knees, and feet.

6 tips for those with dry skin

1. Turn down the thermostat. Hot air tends to be drier than cooler air.
2. Use a humidifier. Humidifiers can help. The problem is that moisture may be soaked up in walls and furniture or disperse rapidly, depending on how airtight your home is.
3. Take warm, not hot, baths and showers. Hot water whisks away the fatty substances in the skin that help it retain water. Some doctors recommend bath oils. You can also use bath oil as a post-bath moisturizer by rubbing yourself down with a teaspoon of it diluted in a couple cups of warm water.
4. Use a mild soap. Dove is a familiar brand. Cleansers like Cetaphil are an alternative to soap.
5. Wear loose clothing. Clothing that binds and rubs can dry out skin.
6. Stay protected. Cold, windy air is very drying, so bundle up and wear warm mittens or gloves to protect your hands.

Dry skin by itself isn't a medical worry, although serious cases can result in cracks and fissures that invite infection and inflammation. The real issue is discomfort — dry skin can be sore, tender to the touch, and often itchy. There's also the red, rough, scaly appearance lamented in many advertisements for moisturizers. With a better understanding of your skin needs you can now choose the moisturizer that suits you best.