If you happen to be a perfume aficionado, it’s likely that you already know the basics of the modern history of perfume. You know that Coty and Guerlain were the first companies to mass-produce perfume, you should know that Chanel No 5 smashed sales records and made perfume history, and you might even understand how the scents marketed by famous women such as Elizabeth Taylor and Katy Perry have defined the perfume markets for decades. However, the slick glass bottles and airbrushed celebrity campaigns of today’s perfume counters belie a strange history that dates back thousands of years – and involves chemicals derived from the butts of dead cats, the Plague and whale vomit.
The history of perfume
is a lot more than the history of humans trying to smell nice – it’s a history
that is filled with much strife and innovation. The ingredients that are used
to create scents have historically been important for trade routes; high-class
scents have always been used as a way to distinguish nobility from peasantry,
and fragrance has been tied to expressions of religious devotion, cleanliness,
and health precautions for most of the history of human civilization.
India
The history of perfume in India dates
back to ancient times, as mentioned in the Vedas. Gandhasastra, a subdivision of Ayurveda, focused on the production
of perfumes for both cosmetic and religious purposes.
Kannauj,
located in northeast India, is renowned as the perfume capital, where
traditional oil-based perfumes called ‘attar’ are
crafted using time-tested distillation methods. Ancient Indian
perfumes were primarily made from natural ingredients such
as flowers, herbs, spices, and essential oils, valued for their aromatic and
therapeutic properties. The use of aromatic substances was
widespread, reflecting the cultural and medicinal significance of perfumes in
Indian society. This rich history highlights the
deep-rooted connection between Indian culture and the art of perfumery.
I
have, in the past, written a blog on Indian perfumes. To read it, please click:
https://surajitbrainwaves.blogspot.com/2017/10/you-smell-great.html
Ancient Egypt
The Egyptians loved
perfume, and they used it for both ceremonial and beautification purposes:
fragrance was believed to be the sweat of the sun-god Ra. They even had a god
of perfume, Nefertum, who wore a headdress made from water lilies, one of
the most popular perfume ingredients of the time. If you were a king or someone
else of high status in Egyptian society, perfume would have been part of your
everyday life, smeared on you in the form of scented oil to keep you smelling
nice. At the moment, the University of Bonn is currently trying to recreate a
pharaoh’s perfume from 1479 BC, based off its desiccated remains found in a
flagon – chances are that it will be sticky and smell heavily of river
botanicals and incense.
Egyptians imported
huge volumes of perfume ingredients from Punt, a region of Africa which
specialized in aromatic woods and myrrh. This was basically the equivalent of
the United States and China striking a million-dollar trade deal for
sandalwood.
Ancient Persia
Ancient Persian
royalty was heavily invested in perfume – so much so that in Persian art it was
common for kings to be pictured with perfume bottles. The legendary rulers
Darius and Xerxes are shown sitting comfortably with their perfume bottles and
holding perfume flowers in their hands. The Persians dominated the perfume
trade for centuries, and many believe that they invented the distillation
process that led to the discovery of base alcohol. One thing we do know is that
Avicenna, the Persian chemist, doctor, and philosopher, experimented
extensively with distillation to try and make better scents, and was first to
work out the chemistry behind perfumes that weren’t oil-based.
Ancient Rome
So many ancient Roman and Greek perfume recipes have survived that it’s actually possible to recreate ancient perfumes in our modern era. The ancient Greeks and Romans carefully documented their perfume-making processes. In fact, there’s even a mural in a perfume-maker's house in Pompeii that documents the process of making Greco-Roman perfumes. First the oils were made by pressing olives, then ingredients such as plants and wood were added to the oil using meticulous measurements, this was then left to steep so that the oil could take on the scent of the ingredients. Perfume was often used in ancient societies to bring believers closer to the gods. However, scents weren’t just used for religious purposes: they were everywhere. If we were to take a rough guess, by 100 AD Romans were using 2,800 tons of frankincense a year, and perfume was used in beauty products, public baths, and even on the soles of feet.
Ancient China
The ancient Chinese
utilized scent by burning incense and fragrant material instead of wearing it
on the body. Histories of the use of scent in Chinese society tend to emphasize
that perfumes weren’t considered a cosmetic there; rather, they were used for
disinfection and purity, as they believed they could eliminate diseases from a
room. However, this isn’t to say that the Ancient Chinese didn’t wear perfume.
In fact, according to Chinese chemistry historians, the period between the Sui
and the Song dynasties was rife with personal perfumes, with nobles competing
for the best scents and importing ingredients via the Silk Road. The big
difference between this and other perfume traditions is that most Chinese
perfume ingredients were used for other purposes such as food and medicine.
Medieval Europe
If you were anybody in
Europe from the 1200s to the 1600s, you carried a pomander – a ball of scented
materials, kept inside an open case, and used to ward of infections and bad
smells. Since medieval Europeans believed that bad air could make you sick,
these little balls were seen as life-savers. This whole idea of portable
perfume seems to have popped up in the Middle Ages after Crusaders, returning
from holy wars, brought back their enemies’ perfume-making secrets. Even though
the idea of personal oil-based perfumes didn’t catch on, they discovered that
castor, musk, civet, ambergris, and other animal-based products made great
bases for scents to perfume their clothes.
The first
alcohol-based perfume was created in this period too: it was known as Hungary
Water, because it was believed to have been created for the queen of Hungary
during the 14th century, and included distilled alcohol and herbs. If you were
wondering what those animal-based ingredients above are, we hope you have a
strong stomach. Musk is a secretion from the musk pod of the male musk deer, an
organ used to mark territory; civet is a liquid from the anal glands of civet
cats; castor is made from the scent glands of beavers; and ambergris is a grey
oily lump found in the digestive system of sperm whales.
1400-1500s Italy
A serious breakthrough
in perfume production came about in medieval Italy, when they discovered how to
make aqua mirabilis, a clear substance made of 95% alcohol and imbued with
strong scent. This was how liquid perfume was born. After this invention, Italy
became the center of the world perfume trade for several centuries. If there’s
one person who can be credited with bringing Italian perfume to France and the
rest of the world, it’s Catherine di Medici, who as an Italian bride to
the French king had a perfume made for her by her Italian perfumer, Rene
le Florentine – a scented water with bergamot and orange blossom. He also
created musk and civet-scented gloves for her. From there, things accelerated
quickly: after a brief dip in perfume popularity in repressed Victorian
England, synthetic compounds began to be discovered in the late 1800s, and the
modern perfume industry was born.
Perfumes expire, you
know and I wrote a blog on this - The
expiry of your favourite perfume – a sad day. To read it, please click:
https://surajitbrainwaves.blogspot.com/2022/07/the-expiry-of-your-favourite-perfume.html